Where Fashion Meets Heritage

Celebrating Whang-Od, Tattoos, and the Timeless Style of the Cordilleras

Welcome to Cordilleran Couture, where every thread, tattoo, and tradition tells a story. In this edition, we explore the intersection of Cordilleran fashion and the ancient art of tattooing, celebrating the legendary Whang-Od and the vibrant cultural heritage of the Cordilleras. From the intricate weaves of the highlands to the bold patterns etched on skin, Cordilleran style is a testament to identity, bravery, and timeless beauty.

The Legacy of Whang-Od: The Last Mambabatok

At 106 years old, Apo Whang-Od Oggay is a living icon. Hailing from the remote village of Buscalan in Kalinga, she is the last mambabatok traditional tattoo artist of the Butbut tribe. Using a thorn from a pomelo tree, a bamboo stick, and natural ink made from charcoal and water, Whang-Od creates intricate designs that are deeply rooted in Cordilleran culture.

Her tattoos are more than just body art they are symbols of courage, strength, and identity. Traditionally, Kalinga warriors earned tattoos for acts of bravery, while women received them as marks of beauty and resilience. Today, Whang-Od’s art has transcended borders, attracting travelers, celebrities, and fashion enthusiasts from around the world who seek to carry a piece of Cordilleran heritage on their skin.

According to lore and to interviews conducted by tattoo anthropologist Dr. Lars Krutak, Whang- Od was 16 when she began her career as a tattooist under her father’s mentorship. The first and only female mambabatok of her time, Whang-Od would travel to far and neighboring villages, summoned by host communities to imprint the sacred symbols of their ancestors on individuals who have crossed or about to cross a threshold in their lives. 

The woman who has been around to witness all these changes is also the one largely responsible for them. Apo Whang-Od, the sprightly centenarian also known as Maria Oggay, has been hand-tapping tattoos on skin since she was a teenager. It was only within the last 15 years or so that her clientele and her renown exploded beyond the Cordillera region, with thousands of visitors coming from all over the world, all seeking the exquisite pain of the soot-stained thorn.